What irks you the most about your favorite climbing area?

[weaksauce#4]

What irks me the most about climbing at Oak Park is knowing I have everything on hard wire and that there is tons of off limits cliff band on the other side of the river...I should get the access fund involved.

[John Wayne]

Wanda

[zirc]

the fucking chipping midget that keeps fucking up all the projects

[Monkey]

midget?

[toivo]

that it's closed

[weaksauce#4]

If the other side of the river gets developed there is going to be a ton of cleaning and holds will be breaking...By the way we use our lingo the definition of chipping is breaking holds on purpose and is more often than not portrayed as wrong if done so. However when there is danger being avoided like large holds chipping should be acceptable. Pre breaking small and weak holds the typical agreement is that we should let them break naturally while being climbing on...With that said we are going to be chipping a lot if access to climbing at Fitzgerald Park opens up.

Oak Park is great the way it is now but 50 years ago it was a total choss pile...Climbs that used to be 5.6 are now 5.10d because there is so many fewer holds. Fitzgerald Park will need a lot of work done to it if we develop it like Oak Park.

Stoked on 100's of new climbs opening up! There is so much potential on the other side of the river. I had seen parts of the area and have climbed over there back in 2004 mostly, but in 2007 someone else gave me a tour of what I had not seen and I was very impressed. The cliffs are smaller but are surely worth while. WIth the faith that it takes and hard work to do something like this to a city that has strict rules of no climbing I believe its possible to get access if things are done correctly and in order.

[zirc]

Poach that shit

[weaksauce#4]

The hopeful plan is to get an area developed with trails, bases beneath the cliff, a guide, and more safety without the risk of going to jail for 30 days or a 400 dollar fine for trespassing one time

[600#gorilla]

fall and spring are too short.

[AlwaysLimping]

saw a new, freshly manufactured lowball roof in peterskill, while walking from the goldfish boulder towards mentos

[malachi]

its so fucking far away

[toivo]

the shrine, it's still closed.

got me thinking and reminiscing. luckily there are videos



i do not remember climbing this, though i do remember the name. there is a kind of insistence, as in oh yeah what are we going to call that thing we just did?

[VTP]

How many boulders is he climbing? God damn i want to pull my eyes out that was fucking terrible.

[zirc]

saw a new, freshly manufactured lowball roof in peterskill, while walking from the goldfish boulder towards mentos

he's really getting out of hand

[toivo]

How many boulders is he climbing? God damn i want to pull my eyes out that was fucking terrible.

as far as i recall, 2 maybe 3. boulders ++. like hueco! but less rocks. so we climb them all.

it was what we did; we scrubbed that. it gave us a place out of the rain. i think it went differently, vaguely, mr bobblehead to the right is harder and better.

in retrospect, it looks like they had a good day out and about.

[weaksauce#4]

Weird, I put up a new climb called "Something Else 5.11c" this past Sunday. I'll take a video of it and whatever else I climb...Hopefully I can pull off Let Me Go Wild for the camera as well

[weaksauce#4]

LMGW was originally graded 5.14 but it is actually 5.12 with the beta

[Lox]

Suparmegalulz to that!

[weaksauce#4]

There was once a nut in the main hold out on the roof (don't ask me how a squirrel put it there)

So when I gave my buddy Steve the beta and he was like ?? the hold is not good!!!!
While hang dogging he felt the hold I was talking about for the beta and he found the nut...I mean, I guess its possible, squirrels are pretty good climbers.

(yes, he sent it after getting the nut out)

[zirc]

chipper