PHOTOGS ... Opie, Merock, Blimp, 600#er, Criz, etc ..

[Ikefromla]

I am usually "that guy" with the camera while climbing. Fuck you, Skav. My pics make everyone look swole.

except maybe STFU.

[RockPharmer]

you made him look even... skinnier? is that possible?

[Ikefromla]

that is just how he looks. at least he climbs swole.

[skav]

STFU has asked me to inform you guys that you're really hurting his feelings by talking about how painfully emaciated he is.

[RockPharmer]

STFU has firsthand knowledge of my own state of emaciation. it's a badge of honor, not something to run and hide from.

<--- not really me

[Cardboard_Dog]

new knowledge = new ways to CRUSH YOUR FACE







with awesome pics. Monday.

[Cardboard_Dog]

or maybe it's the way i go about being a fan....

DING!DING!DING!

Spend less time worrying what other people think and more time taking photos.

I have fake boobs.

Pfff! Proof please.

Back to talking about me .. Okay so all my pics washed out and were blurry. I know that it's going to take a while but I have the internets and I'm impatient and want to post some decent pics. Anyone know how to correct that shiz?? Film speed was 800 aperture was 4 or 4.5 ...

Thanks in advance dudes.

If you don't already have a tripod and a cable release, get them. Then go buy the lowest ISO black&white film you can find(ebay has a lot of options if you don't have a good photo lab nearby). Go take pictures of things that don't move at all. Like mountains. If you want to catch some action go get some Ilford XP2 Super or some Kodak Tri-X 400. Both can be push processed quite well, as can all of the Delta series from Ilford. Dont bother with colour or slides unless you want to spend a lot on development costs. Also, don't buy an enlarger. You only need canisters and chemistry for developing your film. An enlarger would be nice, but you'll be happier just scanning your negatives and getting to touch up the files on your computer.

Get a digital as well if you can. For action and low light you'll be a lot happier with digital. If you really want to explore what film can do you'll want to save your pennies for a medium format camera. Like the Hassy that I just got this weekend:


Dont get me wrong, 35mm is a great format. Its just that as you start to take photography more seriously you start to see that its best use is speed and portability, not quality. Its cool that you are psyched, though. What film were you using? And seeing as the EOS 630 has a light meter, what exposure mode have you been shooting with? You'll likely find that aperture priority is the best for most situations.

If you just bought a Hasselblad for fun I want your job.

I was shooting 800 but never set my film speed. It was at 50? I think. Sooo .. Also the Ilford I've had great results with in the past
but can't develope the film at walgreens. I laugh as I type that. Aperture priority might be my best bet although after a thorough explaination of aperture and shutter speed I might blow off a couple reels in manual. I have to switch to auto and half click to get a general idea of metering, according to the camara, but then I can play from there. Honestly I don't care if i waste 200$ in film as long as at the end of it I understand exactly why every shot went wrong ..

[Sundowner]

My job isn't the greatest, I just finally got my dad to "lend" me his essentially no longer used Hassleblad kit. He used to shoot professionally, but has since become quite happy with his D300. And the kits value has dropped significantly since it was made in '72. You could replace the whole case for $2000 if you shopped ebay well enough(camera,two backs, light meter, three lenses). Although now that retirement is around the corner for him he's talking about pulling out the even nicer large format gear, which Im also trying to "borrow" for the long term. :]

You don't really want to shoot that far off of what the films ISO is rated at. Some films have a much larger latitude for this, but generally you only want to push it a few steps. When I shoot Velvia 100 I set the ISO at 25-50 on the camera. When Im using Ilford 50 its usually at ISO 25-50, but Ill often drop it down below 25 for really long exposures. For action shots in lower light I found that Ilford XP2 Super has a lot of latitude beyond its stated 400 ISO and can be push processed quite well. It can also be developed in C-41, so you could get it done at Wallgreens no problem.

I have to switch to auto and half click to get a general idea of metering, according to the camara, but then I can play from there.

Thats actually a really smart way to teach yourself how to expose properly. And you'll often find that the TTL light meter doesn't always give you the right exposure for some harder to expose shots. This is where bracketing your exposure becomes important and when you realize that you'll want to shoot the entire roll for one or maybe two scenes. Sounds wasteful, but it can make a huge difference when shooting landscapes. I do the same thing with digital and then just go through after wards and pick the one that balances everything the best, or failing that I can just merge them into an HDR image and correct the exposure even more.

[600#gorilla]

***---P H O T O G R A P H Y---***
It's all about the camera. Seriously.

it's all about the dumbass holding the camera, dumbass.

[600#gorilla]

that's not just any man you pussy - that is Andrew Zimmern!

and that's not just something phallic - that's a Geoduck!