Pop goes the finger!

[suzieq]

Hey, I *popped* my right ring finger in the gym tonight. Blew out the left ring finger years ago and had to have reconstructive surgery on the pulley. Anyway...although the sound was the same and the fact that it took about 5 minutes for it to actually start hurting (after the pop), it doesn't feel the same as that other injury. It's a bit tender to a light squeeze and it only hurts when I make a fist (even just a very light fist). Anyone else experience these symptoms? Any ideas? Suggestions? I'm off on a climbing trip at the end of the month and looking for sound advice on how to approach this so I can actually climb (instead of just drinking) on my trip. Thanks, SQ

[Whiteflash]

My pulley's are the bane of my climbing as well. Sounds like you got a grade II injury as compared to a grade III the first time. (I. nonpulley rupture,
II. incomplete pulley rupture, III: complete pulley rupture, or IV: complete combined A2 and A3 pulley rupture.) I have also experienced both of those two. For the grade II the best treatment plan for me was initial rest, followed by taping the pulley and avoiding the painful holds. Most treatment recommendations include both ice and massaging of the injured area after mild use.

I've basically learned what kind of holds I CAN NOT yard off of and avoid those like the plague, I'm also a lot better at knowing when I'm pushing my finger's limits. Good luck with your injury and I think if you take it easy you will probably be fine on your trip, just try not to fuck with that finger too much in the interim.

Oh, and the science behind it, should you care.
http://radiology.rsna.org/content/222/3/755.full.pdf+html
http://www.wemjournal.org/wmsonline/?request=get-document&issn=1080-6032&volume=014&issue=02&page=0094

[hweight]

I have. Rest first, and ice for short periods (no more than 9 minutes--fingers don't need as much time as a larger body part). Then, I a lot of light therapy using a bucket full of rice: I would submerge my whole hand in the bucket and then slowly open and close my hand. I did this until the pain was basically gone--about 2 months.

I still tried to climb during the 2nd month. It definitely slowed down the healing process.

[pmahnn]

I partially ruptured a pully. Kept climbing. And didn't give it ample healing team because I was so bad ass. And now I feel like a man in prison for 40 years that wants to slap his younger self for being an idiot.

If my experience is comparable to your situation, you probably shouldn't climb.

[ScreamingMedic]

no icey,

cold baths prease


http://revver.com/video/289137/rock-cli ... -injuries/

this has always always always worked wonders for me, whether after an injury, or just if i feel strained

name dropping i know, but dave macleods website has some of the best injury/training advice of any site i've ever seen

[ipoach]

I had this SAME EXACT thing happen to me on November 6th.

I stopped climbing immediately. and excluding the weekly table crimp test I stayed off it completely for almost 2 months.

Periodically I would Ice it and message it but nothing regular. (i did a lot of messaging when I would be sitting around at the office or home)

I have now climbed on it 3 times since the injury, each time about a week a part.

I would say I am at about 90%, I can climb with little to no pain as long as I am not crimping with that hand. I will refrain from crimping for at least another month.

When I do climb I tape that finger to the point where I can barely bend it.

Oh, and btw... I sent my 4yr project last week. So maybe the 2 month rest was good for me.

w00t.

[Lox]

Which 4 year project?

[ipoach]

Tha earf.

Couldn't link the shit forever.

[Lox]

Sick.

That shit always seems to open up when you're in a wierd spot in life.

[elblat]

This is all great advice if you have patience. Amputation is much faster however. Plus a finger makes a great gag gift for a loved one.

[elblat]

If it was there's no way in hell I'd admit it.

[slim]

sorry to hear this. heal quickly.

[toivo]

tape works to replace pulley function. tape both sides of the joint nearest the popped pulley; connect the two with an "X" on the meaty side, with the finger bent. this way when you pull the load is partly taken by the tape. is this masking the injury? definitely. but you can get away with it, even climbign in a state of continual injury, kind of circulating between this and that finger in various states of rehab. enjoy the trip! maybe take a few months off after it and the therapies above. or take up drinking. lots of choices

[dm]

people always talking about they know how to heal a tendon problem.

but i have noticed that no one really seems to know what they're talking about.

You might want to work out the difference between a pulley and a tendon before you try and be a smartass. Just so you don't come across as a total fucking dick-snap.

OH WAIT, TOO LATE.

[automated]

simple solution: 6 to 8 weeks NO CLIMBING. in the meantime: ice. light massage. do something valuable with all that free time.

[suzieq]

I really appreciate all of the input. I have been doing the rest/ice thing and the swelling is subsiding slightly. I will check out the links/websites that you suggested. Once again, thanks! SQ

[TMCleavor]

Tape seems to do nothing. I stumbled across an article on Pub med about a research project done on cadavers but cant find it now. I''l keep looking and post that shit up. The goal was to test to see if tape would raise the force limit upon which a pulley would pop, so they tape several fresh cadavers in various ways and tested them versus a control and found that in many cases the tape actually lowered the force required to pop a pulley.

[dm]

http://www.chockstone.org/TechTips/FingerTaping.htm

A good article about taping.

[drater]

1. Insert injured finger in rectum, palm deep.

2. Remove after 2 months.

3. Send projects.

[suzieq]

no icey,

cold baths prease


http://revver.com/video/289137/rock-cli ... -injuries/

this has always always always worked wonders for me, whether after an injury, or just if i feel strained

name dropping i know, but dave macleods website has some of the best injury/training advice of any site i've ever seen

Screaming Medic: Dave Macleod's advice is working really well. My recovery is coming along way faster than I had imagined.

Thanks to everyone for the info. Much appreciated.