What irks you the most about your favorite climbing area?

Re: What irks you the most about your favorite climbing area

Postby toivo » Fri Sep 21, 2012 9:19 pm

shame on a chipper.

it's pretty amazing actually to think that one could find unclimbed boulders in the world. there's redemption in that.

http://lt11.com/2012/09/17/abyss-north-americas-highest-bouldering/#disqus_thread

it gets me thinking about the relation between this kind of exposure and the pristine possibility that opens a climbing area up in the first place. i recall my favourite climbing area, favourite because it was ours, when there was basically 1 small crew from the gym, 1 loner who painted names on rocks, and a couple of guys who had climbed there in the past. one is now an imaginative route setter; the other turned to meditation and split with his hot girlfriend. one could tell by the signs of traffic who had been there before you. this went on for several years, all quite content just to work on the problems, then go back to the gym and train more, or as you like. one stays weak if one wants to. so our days unfolded.

then an online guide was written. then dr. topo made up their video of the place, and a change occurred. the very next weekend, what was an otherwise isolated place became a scene. it was pretty amazing to see a bunch of cool, mostly friendly people with cameras out and about in a pleasant spot (except for those who left their used tape around- who litters used bandages???/) out on a solo venture, i met a super sweet couple i;d climbed with at big bend, and we climbed together again. that was cool. way out at the margins of the system, and we meet again! it's as if the boulders possessed some extra gravity.

politically speaking, the question then becomes how to leverage that exposure for the purposes of mobilization for access to the boulders.
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Re: What irks you the most about your favorite climbing area

Postby skav » Sat Sep 22, 2012 5:18 pm

it's pretty amazing actually to think that one could find unclimbed boulders in the world. there's redemption in that.


No it's not. Boulderers are notoriously lazy. Just walk more than a couple miles from your car.
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Re: What irks you the most about your favorite climbing area

Postby toivo » Sat Sep 22, 2012 6:15 pm

skav wrote:
it's pretty amazing actually to think that one could find unclimbed boulders in the world. there's redemption in that.


No it's not. Boulderers are notoriously lazy. Just walk more than a couple miles from your car.


But... There are boulders out there that haven't been clmbed. That just seems to me like a thrilling concept.

According to Sherman's attitude there at least, the limited range of earlier generations of boulderers is as much smart as it is lazy.
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Re: What irks you the most about your favorite climbing area

Postby Lox » Sun Sep 23, 2012 12:12 pm

I don't know about smart, but it was pretty nice when we were able to back a truck up to Anorexic roof and blast tunes and have cooler beers while climbing.
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Re: What irks you the most about your favorite climbing area

Postby weaksauce#4 » Tue Sep 25, 2012 9:47 am

http://lockard.info/john/photos/climbin ... 3-1-0.html

1 macbook air, 5 MacBooks, and 4 macbook pro's to the person who can insight
Let Me Go Wild rated only 5.12b

(two of the macbook pro's are the older style with gray key's)
the other two have 2.66 ghz processors (refurbished with no dust blocking the fans so these puppies are not going to overheat any time soon)
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Re: What irks you the most about your favorite climbing area

Postby stonefiend » Tue Sep 25, 2012 10:52 am

skav wrote:
it's pretty amazing actually to think that one could find unclimbed boulders in the world. there's redemption in that.


No it's not. Boulderers are notoriously lazy. Just walk more than a couple miles from your car.


Not around here they aren't. People hike in a dozen miles at sunrise to get their bouldering session started.
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Re: What irks you the most about your favorite climbing area

Postby weaksauce#4 » Tue Sep 25, 2012 6:39 pm

I just mowed my neighbors lawn...I only walked about 2 miles and it took 45 minutes (Had to go slow because his grass was long as Ive been busy repairing
crapples...don't even say they are not crap because the hardware is a joke/pc linux for life).

BOY I AM A CHUFFER!
Last edited by weaksauce#4 on Thu Oct 04, 2012 11:15 pm, edited 1 time in total.
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Re: What irks you the most about your favorite climbing area

Postby AlwaysLimping » Thu Oct 04, 2012 10:13 am

youre only a chuffer if you use that term and werent born in the UK
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Re: What irks you the most about your favorite climbing area

Postby Tronic » Thu Oct 04, 2012 10:15 pm

Image
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Re: What irks you the most about your favorite climbing area

Postby weaksauce#4 » Thu Oct 04, 2012 11:13 pm

choss
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Re: What irks you the most about your favorite climbing area

Postby Tronic » Fri Oct 05, 2012 8:56 pm

That's only the approach.
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