Boldering Forums

always knew it would turn out to be a glued up crumbling chossy shitpile with a psychotic protective first ascentionist circling overhead.

"If there had not existed five glued holds, prior to one hold getting bigger from climbing, we do not think it should have been glued back without full consensus. In a general point of view we also think that it could be OK to reinforce loose holds.

From the picture we can see the size of the the broken hold when Adam Ondra climbed it meaning it must have been bigger once Dave Graham and Daniel Woods started trying Gioia and using that hold. This did not Christian Core know, so he just glued it back into it's original status.

We have been talking with Christian and he is very sorry for the controversy and he just did what he thought the whole community wanted him to do and he says, the locals agree with him. He feels sorry for not meeting and discussing the broken hold together with other potential Gioia climbers, to decide if it should be glued and how.

- I am very sorry for any misunderstanding and poor communication. The broken and glued hold is on the crux of Gioia stand 8A+ so I did not think it was such a big thing but important to preserve the lines. There were already invisible glue on four more holds on the 8A+. Varazze is a very beautiful bouldering area and we welcome everyone to come and try our nice boulders."

Fucking Christians. Always thinking they know best.

You are all welcome to use exactly our beta, and if you don't we will crucify you while filling in the holds we missed during the fa. Welcome all to our wonderful area!!!

I think this sort of thing happens when elite climbers overclimb their home areas. I am sure Varazze has a large number of great climbs, but this 8c+ nonsense is like a traverse into an 8a+ stand. It reminds me of the 8c+ problem Ondra put up at his home area, which is basically a lowlow traverse with drop off, might even be an eliminate. Wheeeee! It seems like the really hard, aesthetic stand up lines are hella rare. These v16z seem to be super-contrived and even maybe a little chossy, so it makes sense that this dude, the curator of the area, would try to 'preserve' the problem by gluing holds, covering new footholds that develop with traffic in glue, etc. to show what they did on that kinda chossy line that they had ruthlessly dialed. For me, as a spectator of this level of climbing, I would much rather see that tall, strikingly sick 8b+ or 8c bolder climbed than some lowball choss. Gioia looked like it could be a very sick testpiece, but now hearing about all the glue used to 'make' it and then more to erase the non-sanctioned foothold, etc... meh. I would rather see vids of slightly easier but better looking natural lines than some low traverse or glue-up.

OMG VEE16Z!!111

truff.

Ondra could well be a sick climber. But I rage clicked the close button the first time I heard him scream. It's like watching Justin Woods boulder all fucking day. Fuck the screamers.

Justin Woods-you-not-scream-so-damn-much-JEEZ

Has Christian met Ivan yet? They'd hit it off great.

http://www.dpmclimbing.com/climbing-videos/watch/hammered-and-chiseled

bringing it back like baking soda.