Boldering Forums

If the wall is blank, I say chip away. It can't be just any old asshole though it's gotta be a sculptor and route setter. No Max BreakALegatukhin. You can always go back and correct things no big deal. Don't alter what's been done though.

slim wrote:If the wall is blank, I say chip away. It can't be just any old asshole though it's gotta be a sculptor and route setter. No Max BreakALegatukhin. You can always go back and correct things no big deal. Don't alter what's been done though.

Grenade and let the schralpnel fall where it may.

So we went to try this problem at Carter Lake in Colorado, and it's right at water level, and submerged through the summer. It supposedly TILTED a little bit since the FA making it slightly harder.

It kinda got me thinking though. Why not even just TILT a boulder slightly so that the line gets a little harder each time. A few bottle jacks and some gusto and this could be a thing. Of course the climbs on the other side get EASIER, but such is life. You just have to be choosy.

This is some next lvl shit for sure. Good thread.

BoulderTiltersAnonymous?

Croc Block at rocktown is a PERFECT candidate for this. Classic V5, tallish, cool moves. No problems on the backside! A simple TILT would take that whole face to a new level and really add that... je ne sais quoi...

mountainz wrote:Slim, I love it. Pump jack all the boulders. Real out of the box thinking. I think Ivan would be proud.

Right?! One degree of tilt and it would change everything. Most people wouldn't even notice. It way more subtle than actually chipping, and could really change the game and be a stepping stone to actual chipping. Plus you could always tilt it back so no harm done. God damn Porchie when they go back to research the beginning of the new era, this thread will be there as proof. Great thread. Visionary even.

Fuck that noise. Imagine if we just built walls of varying angles and then fixed modular "grips" to them to create the climb of your dreams! You work it, send it, and then tear it down and design a new one! Endless possibilities. And you could build it indoors, outside, hell, in your garage! No pump jacks needed! Now that's my dawn wall!

What the FUCK are you crazy?

If bolderers were motivated enough to carry a pump jack to a bolder, they would probably be a trad climber anyway.

spleeflyfe4lyfe.

And that's how a bill becomes law.

When I lived in SLC there was a hippy climber that climbed in little with no shoes. He was convinced that if he climbed enough with no shoes his feet would be like hands and he would crush. This was in 2001. Still nothing. He would walk up and down the canyon road barefoot to build callouses and he had massive ugly corns on his toes that would slough off on slabs... STFU or some other old school LCC tard remember him im sure.

I'm going to have to shoot down the no shoes thing. Who the wants to take care of lacerated toes and fucked up foot skin as well as mangled hands. A nice water solo session? Sure.

Lets get some new ideas flowing.

I just saw Nalle trying to send a V10 wearing gloves on instagram. Maybe we should just start wearing fucking gloves to make things harder. Save the skin and yet another product for the equipment companies. At the very least a spray on adhesive.

I mean I fucking love going to rocktown and circuiting moderates with my tennies on. It's satisfying. People would just commit suicide if you did it with tennies AND gloves while they were going at it with bare hands and rock shoes. Talk about belittling.

slim wrote:If the wall is blank, I say chip away. It can't be just any old asshole though it's gotta be a sculptor and route setter. No Max BreakALegatukhin. You can always go back and correct things no big deal. Don't alter what's been done though.

lolz

i cleaned all the boulders i could find around our new place, then could only climb the down climbs. the problems looked obvious, but seemed impossible in practice. so i built a couple of walls, then settled into a rhythm of climbing and staring at the sky, alternating between those two training modes. since then i have not returned to the rocks, so shut down on the expeditions and enjoying pleasant outdoor bouldering on human-friendly holds handy by. the future of bouldering is patience.