Boldering Forums

italian shoes seem bomber, try scarpas maybe. or EVOLV.

5.10 shoes are great if you get them prodeal or similar. If you're paying retail... forget it. There is basically a 90% chance they will delam, lose a loop, come apart at the toe seam from toe hooking/camming, rip at the heel, lose part of the heel cup, or blow out at the big toe in a month despite being a great fit everywhere else. The one in ten you get that don't become disposable or mostly disposable after a couple uses are great though. I think the hardest thing about switching from 5.10 is accepting the FACT that you can step on the same shit with different rubber.

If you love that perfect pair of Anasazi Velcros, I recommend getting the Evolv Pontas. I have a pair of those and a pair of the downturned Agro slippers. I haven't found any occasion to blame my inability to send a problem on the shoes.

My homie calls them Slippery Nanners but I think they are quite nice.

niceporch wrote:What do you think?

i think you're a dumbfuck for walking away with the shoes! you knew they were going to fail, why did you drop coin on them?

ps - sportiva 4lyfe

I have an old pair of talon lace ups that I've resoled once and perform very well. There's a lot of rubber making them a sweat box. The velcros may be good for this.

Solutions rock. Just be sure to downsize a pretty significant amount, I can go 2.5, probably 3 sizes below street shoe.

delete.

I'm so glad that La Sportiva starting making Cobras again. As long as you don't need to toe-hook they are the dogs bollocks. And they're cheap. PERFECT.

Don't need to toehook ?!?!

Dab.

You just need to get stronger. Foot faggotry becomes unnecessary.

You don't climb enough limestone roofs.

Miuras ftw.

n00b of the year!

Actually, I was just trying to troll Lox.

FAIL

hweight wrote:Miuras ftw.

miuras with laces, sure, but mine only last 1-2 months (climbing 4-5 days a week on syenite porphyry, roofs mostly). i get heel delam from normal heel hooking, delam above the big toe from toe cams and toe hooks. and side-heel delam from lateral heel toe cams. the lace system owns. no shoe laces tighter, but the laces might as well be made of butt wipe.

140$ retail. pff

pander wrote:140$ retail. pff

Ha, $270AUD (Australian dollar is around about 92c US). "Cheap" cobras are $160.

pander wrote:

hweight wrote:Miuras ftw.

miuras with laces, sure, but mine only last 1-2 months (climbing 4-5 days a week on syenite porphyry, roofs mostly). i get heel delam from normal heel hooking, delam above the big toe from toe cams and toe hooks. and side-heel delam from lateral heel toe cams. the lace system owns. no shoe laces tighter, but the laces might as well be made of butt wipe.

140$ retail. pff

At least you're not wearing them out in the gym.

*neither am I, but I'm just pointing out that it could be worse.

hweight wrote:the gym.

My woman just bought her first pair of shoes. To wear to the gym. Because, fuck you know where I live. And she's PSYCHED about climbing since we went to Flag and she touched the supple earth boobs known as boulders.

True story, bro.

If she wants to touch stone boobs, she needs to come to the south.

Maybe she can get you to start climbing again.

My nearly-5-year-old 5.10 V10s are still solid, and I pull this shit out of those pull tabs. Only problem is I've dragged my toe until my knuckle sticks out, but I do that with all shoes.
Climbed a lot of slabs in those V10s...

Has 5.10 lowered their standards in recent years or did I get lucky?

I will get new shoes when I get a new job.