route setting monochrome ???

[pmahnn]

the worst

[Lox]

Spotting super worthless indoors anyway. I literally stop climbing and ask the unfortunate dude what the hell he thinks he is doing.

[Betty]

Generally I would agree. But I think there are exceptions. The ass. mgr. was climbing near us and said we could as soon as the staff kid walked away.

Why disallow all spotting though, instead of teaching people how to do it properly and only as needed?

[Lox]

Its the as needed part that gets me here. You really should only need a spot for tall problems, awkward falls, uneven landings and places where there are obstacles in the fall zones. In other words, you should never NEED a spot indoors.

If you do have a high heel, low percentage move off the deck with backfall potential or a huge dynamic move where failure will throw you into an adjacent wall or post, it's a routesetting failure not a need for a spot.

[RockPharmer]

So what's the verdict on those glow in the dark black light holds? Rad, or super rad?

[zirc]

did they delete my post? I can't see shit anymore, total bannage. that was the biggest rated highest post count that group ever had. i should be on a podium.

[Betty]

Its the as needed part that gets me here. You really should only need a spot for tall problems, awkward falls, uneven landings and places where there are obstacles in the fall zones. In other words, you should never NEED a spot indoors.

If you do have a high heel, low percentage move off the deck with backfall potential or a huge dynamic move where failure will throw you into an adjacent wall or post, it's a routesetting failure not a need for a spot.

Ah, but I don't set the routes there, and have no say in how they are set. In the instance the other night, it would have been a probable twisted fall onto my upper back if I didn't make the move, and a very experienced guy spotting me to keep my neck and head from hitting first.

As many injuries as I see at that group of gyms, it shocks me to disallow good spots. Maybe no spots are ever needed at your area gyms, but here I say allow when needed.

[evil temptress]

You still using a lack of health insurance as an excuse for not climbing highballs?

[Betty]

No, I'm shocked by spotting not being allowed in gyms where I regularly witness accidents (including a broken back) due to no spotter/poor spotting. But it's not my gym. They can do whatever they want.

[Lox]

Yeh no idea, fucking stupid to actually disallow.

And you witnessed a dude break his back boldering indoors? How does that even happen?!?!?

[Betty]

It's a tall gym where awkward big moves high off the deck are pretty standard. I didn't actually witness him breaking his back, but sans name dropping, let's just say very experienced outside climber who said his high left heel stuck even when he didn't make the throw. Awkward fall, and I haven't seen him climbing since then. You can hear broken ankles and legs at that chain all the time, including an ankle of mine a few years ago. I think the new rules are due to a fatality (toprope) a couple years ago, but maybe one of the broken leg guys sued. I still say allow if needed; just make sure the spotter knows what they're doing, or effin set differently. Sad thing is that I really like the owners. Strong local guys who set interesting problems.

Guess I should move somewhere I want to stay so I can just build my own little gym.

[zirc]

I have health insurance now.

My excuse for not climb highballs is that I've already sent them all.

OHHHH!!

It's ok to be scared

[Tronic]

Flashed Ice Pond Moby Sit. Twice for the non beliebers.
That shit is grey all over!
Should have then flashed the entire forge but added 25lbs dab. fatballs

[Cardboard_Dog]

Pike Run eliminate

[jlane]

I might get banned if I keep posting in this thread about setting hard or soft for the grade. One guy likes to set "spot on" and another guy is suggesting you retard the grades to the soft side intentionally to keep new members' stoke up.

Nothing like discovering your gym sets soft as you enter the top moves of Fight or Flight...

The guy who suggested soft grades to keep stoke up should be punched in the face repeatably and be forced to boulder bishop highball choss like Evilution padless until he/ she a has better feel for the grades.

[Lox]

The more I think about it, the funnier it gets.

Sure, those noobs you meet who think they climb harder than they do are fun to watch, until one of them leaves a heel hook in on the Gunks bolder and your hole day is cut short because of a "medical emergency."

BUT !!!11

This practice must give rise to a new, even more annoying group. The routesetters who flail and then proclaim "But I can send all the v3s I set in our gym back in Omaha! What gives!"

I honestly can't wait to meet one of the grade A dooshnozzles in the wild...

[zirc]

lolz, in the wild. it is awesome.